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Moschino underlines playful collection with wake-up calls: Save our Sphere and Don't be Silent

The Moschino runway collection for next fall and winter was both a celebration and a wake-up call, a mixed message underlined by the black confetti that rained down on the finale during Milan Fashion Week on Friday.
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A model wears a creation as part of the Moschino Fall/Winter 2025-2026 Womenswear collection presented in Milan, Italy, Friday, Feb. 28, 2025. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno)

The runway collection for next fall and winter was both a celebration and a wake-up call, a mixed message underlined by the black confetti that rained down on the finale during Milan Fashion Week on Friday.

Creative director Adrian Appiolaza鈥檚 sweatshirt exhorted 鈥淒on鈥檛 be silent,鈥 during his closing bow.

鈥淭he ethos of Moschino stems from joy, so I didn鈥檛 want to lose (that) sentiment. But I wanted to be also conscientious of the times that we live in,鈥欌 Appiolaza said.

The overall tone of the collection was playful, with the brand鈥檚 engaging trompe l'oeil sleights of the eye.

Raw denim looks showed the tailor鈥檚 basting stitches. Grey wool dresses featured exaggerated, sculptural elements, as if wind pushed up the skirt hems and bell sleeves. Oversized puffer coats were paired with sofa cushion headgear. Fetching gowns were made from florals fished from the Moschino archive.

The show closed with an SOS message from the late brand founder Franco Moschino鈥檚 archives, Save our Sphere. A model carried a small handbag shaped like the globe.

Front-row guests included singers Normani and Neneh Cherry, who just published a memoir in October.

Colleen Barry, The Associated Press

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